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| Welcome To The Most Magical Of Woods Check out my Magic Wood video edit HERE |
We have been living in Magic Wood for almost two weeks.
Staying at the Gasthaus, we are a mere ten-minute walk from world-class
bouldering. During the time we have been here, the weather has only kept us off
the boulders for two days. What I mean by that is there were only two days in
which it rained all day. In reality, the rain kept us off many of the boulders
we desired to climb for most of our time in the area. Upon our arrival, we realized Magic Wood is the land of remarkable
bouldering and the home of never-ending moisture. Most of our days have been
spent at no more than five of the same boulders, which we all have projects on.
During our climbing adventures in Switzerland, Griffin and I
will be living with our good friends Max Krimmer and girlfriend Eli Michaels
from Colorado. Max Krimmer is an up-and-coming filmmaker and climber who just
released his first climbing film, HUNTSMEN. The film is about the development
and climbing of unbelievable boulders in Southern Colorado. If you guys haven’t
seen HUNTSMEN yet you should really download a copy and watch it!!
www.vimeo.com/ondemand/huntsmen
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| The crazy couple reviewing footage. |
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| Max looking psyched to climb |
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| Eli taking a nap at the boulders. |
During my time here in Magic Wood, I
have been able to send quite a few hard problems, more than I thought I would have
sent. My favorite problem so far would have to be Piranja. One of the most well known classic climbs in Magic Wood,
Piranja 7c+ / V10, experiences quite a bit of traffic from the come and go
climbers that visit the area. Starting on a good full pad crimp, you climb up
through the face using decent crimps and a few small flat ledges until you are
positioned on a decent half pad left hand crimp and a toothy right hand crimp. After
climbing through the first six moves a jump to a crimp at the top of the face
is all that stands in the way of making it to the finish jug. I made quick work
of the bottom moves and found myself struggling over and over again with the
jump move. Pissed off and tired, I tried a slight tweak to the beta, which
instead of jumping, required me to get a far right foot to allow me to pop into
a bad right hand undercling and then into the hold at the top of the face. In
the end I was surprised by how
difficult I found the climb considering I love small holds. Max also made quick
work of this classic climb.
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| Trying some new beta on Piranja. Photo Credit: Max Krimmer |
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| Max giving it his all on Piranja, |
My hardest send in Magic Wood was of Massive Attack, 8a+ /
V12. This was one of the problems I had watched online many times before I had
left for my trip, so it was a must-try on my list. Taking three sessions to
send, this problem took up a lot of time, but in the end, was worth it.
Starting on an amazing right hand crimp and a bad right hand slopey block, you
make your way up and around a sort of bulge in the rock. From the start move
you bump your left hand up to a terrible impression in the rock and then again
to a decent hold. Once setup with new feet, you make one last difficult toss
over and around the bulge to a jug. I am glad that I put time into sending
Massive Attack, but let’s just say that if I return to Magic Wood, this will
not be a problem that I choose to repeat.
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| Holding the swing after a difficult move to a jug. Photo Credit: Eli Michaels |
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| The crew hanging out during a session on Massive Attack Photo Credit: Eli Michaels |
Other than Piranja and Massive Attack, I also managed to
send the following: The Left Hand of Darkness 8a+ / V12, Foxy Lady 8a / V11 and
The Right Hand of Darkness 8a / V11.
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| Moving out around the lip during the crux move on The Left Hand of Darkness 8a+ / V12 Photo Credit: Eli Michaels |
Everyone else has also been CRUSHING
during our time in Magic Wood.
Griffin has been able to send the following and more: Deep Throat
8b / V13, The Bizarre Ride 8a+ / V12, and Jack’s Broken Heart 8a+ / V12 among others.
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| Griffin working the lower moves on Deep Throat 8b / V13 |
Eli has been able to send the following and more: Stressman 7a / V6,
Enterprise 7a / V6, and Bosna Royal 7a / V6.
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| Eli sending on Stress Man 7a / V6 |
Max has been able to send the following and more: Cote De scheshwan
7c+ / V10, Never Ending Story Part 2 8a / V11, Höhenrausch 7B+ / V8/9, Super Nova 7c / V9.
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| Max working on the left arm intensive climb, Super Nova 7c / V9 |
During my visit to Paris and Fontainebleau, I started using
a new type of oil for my tendons called Crimp Oil. While in Paris, I stayed
with Caroline Sinno, an amazingly strong climber and owner and founder of Crimp
Oil. She told me about the benefits of using natural oils to help prevent and
heal tendon injuries, and to ease discomfort from aching joints and muscle
fatigue. Crimp Oil is something new and helpful that I have started using in my
daily climbing routine to shorten healing times and I think that every climber
should try it out!!
In a few days we will be moving to a new housing location in Claro, Switzerland to begin a new portion of our climbing journey. We will be climbing in the famous climbing areas Brione, Cresciano, Chironico
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| Our first walk across the imfamous Magic Wood bridge Photo Credit: Eli Michaels |
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| I am obviously destroying Max in this epic arm wrestling match Photo Credit: Eli Michaels |
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| I caught an Eli!! |
