Bouldering in Brione, Switzerland

Check Out My Brione Video Edit HERE

Claro, Switzerland is a small charming city located two hours North of Milan. The city is home to the Casa Stillhart, a collection of cottages and apartments located up a steep hillside crisscrossed by narrow roads. Upon our arrival we were taken to what would be our home for the remainder of our trip. Our cottage is named the Rustico, for a good reason.

Max relaxing outside of the Rustico

The main bedroom of the Rustico

We have been living here in the Rustico for two weeks now and I could not have asked for anything more. The simple living has kept us all focused on our main goal, climbing. While here, we spend our time climbing between the cities of Cresciano, Chironico, and Brione, all of which contain world-class bouldering. During the last two weeks we have spent our time climbing in Brione. Located 45 minutes away up steep narrow mountain roads, it is said that this is the home of the best rock in the world.

A beautiful view from high up in the mountains near Cresciano

The famous Brione meadow

Many boulder problems are located right alongside or even in the riverbed

In Brione we have been spending most of our time climbing in an area known as the meadow. This large open pasture is a mere 10-minute hike from the parking lot. After passing a small gathering of houses surrounded by biting fifteen-pound dogs, your jaw drops as an enormous boulder-covered mountainous meadow appears before your eyes. This dream-come-true is home to dozens of classic boulder problems.

I am sad to say that i was unable to send this beautiful climb. Black Mirror 6b/V3

Beware of the Dogs!

Max climbing the Brione Arete 7a+/V7

Although this area is so magnificent, I have not been very fond of the climbing in the meadow compared to other areas in Brione. I am the odd one out when it comes to liking the meadow; everyone else has numerous projects in the area. Max has been working on the super classic Amber 8b/V13. With about five sessions under his belt on the climb Max has been right on the edge of sending.  

Max trying hard after the crux move on Amber 8b/V13

We were slippin and slidin all over Jungle Book 8a/V11 in 70 degree weather

Ladies and Gentlemen I present to you Max Krimmer

Eli has also been putting in time on an unknown climb right off the edge of the meadow. This 7a+/V7  is located next to Disney Productions starts on good holds and climbs out on crimps above a huge hole, making the climb a bit scary if not padded properly. Eli worked on the problem for a few days, and with a few final tweaks to her beta she pulled it off. Nice Work!!

Eli giving it her all on an unknown project

Eli giving it her all on an unknown project

Griffin has been able to bounce around making quick assents of Amber 8b/V13 and Blinded by the Light 8b/V13 along with General Disarray 8b/V13 . He has settled down and has started working on Kingdom 8c/V15. This fairly new problem was established by Carlo Traversi about two years ago, and is one of the hardest problems that Brione has to offer. Sadly I was unable to get any pictures of Griffin on Kingdom.

Griffin on General Disarray 8b/V13

Griffin figuring out the moves on Flash Flood 8b/V13

Of all the boulders in Brione, I managed to enjoy one boulder more than the rest. Nestled alongside the river running through Brione is a boulder that contains four unique hard climbs. Of the four, I was able to send Fake Pamplemousse 8a/V11 and Frogger 8a/V11. I want to thank Max for filming me on both of these problems, check out the edit that I put together with this footage; there is a link at the top of this page.

Preparing the big first move on Fake Pamplemousse 8a/V11

Jesse Bonin giving it his all on Fake Pamplemousse 8a/V11

The following week, the storm clouds rolled in and forced us inside for a few days until we heard about a cave that stays dry in the rain. A few minutes downhill from the main Chironico parking you will find a large cave that is home to an 8a/V11 called Alphane Moon. This problem starts off on a good jug rail and moves up additional jugs until you set up with a right hand heel match and a left toe. Next, you do a big move off of the heel to a good three-finger pinch that I could only ever hit with two fingers. After that you move through crimps on the face and cut feet to a good block. Finally you lock off up to a bad edge, and after matching this, more good crimp stands between you and the finish pinch. Ultimately, I found this climb to be entertaining, especially considering that it was pouring down rain the whole time. 

 Alphane Moon 8a/V11

On October 7^th during one of our daily weather discussions, it came to our attention that the long-term forecast for Claro predicted rain for the next 20 days. Unwilling to let this weather hold us back from climbing, we made a quick decision to move out of the Rustico and to Albarracín, Spain. The next day, we woke up early and started packing. We eventually ended up hitting the road around 1:45PM, and after a long toll-filled drive we arrived at our bungalow at 6:30AM the following day. We will be living here in Spain for two and a half weeks until the weather clears up, then we will be going back to Switzerland for the remainder of our trip.

This picture was taken before we stuffed toilet paper and shoes into every little crack as we packed the car to head to Albarracin, Spain

As you can see our Bungalow is not what you would call roomy, but its much better than a tent!

Albarracin, Spain

Finally, I want to say Happy 21st Birthday to Griffin Whiteside!!!!

I hope you enjoyed reading about our adventures in Switzerland, I will post soon about our climbing in Spain.